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A Hand Held Tesla Coil
Battery Powered 'Plasma Gun'
The design for this Tesla Coil is based on the larger battery powered DIY Tesla Coil project but with the aim of getting a much smaller and portable device. A Power Pulse Modulator circuit is used to drive two small high voltage ignition coils wired together in an 'anti-parralel' configuration. The output is rectified and used to charge the tank capacitor of a small spark gap Tesla Coil.
WARNING: This project uses dangerous high voltages!
The device is packed into the casing of chepo cordless drill from a DIY store. This drill used an 18V battery and comes with a charger which made it ideal for the project. The ignition coil driver circuit used takes a direct 12V - 30V input which is connected using the original switch from the drill.
This video clip shows the plasma gun causing a nearby light bulb to light up as if it were a plasma globe.
The high frequency, high voltage from the plasma gun causes the Argon gas in the light bulb to become ionized. This creates streamers that are attracted to the fingers holding it.
The device draws about 6 amps from a well charged 12 V battery which makes the total power consumption to around 72 watts. Unfortunately this low power means the plasma arcs will be limited in size, but since it is hand held that's probably a good thing. The typical length of the output arcs is between 5 and 7cm.
Such a small Tesla Coil inherently has quite a high resonant frequency which in this case is about 500 kHz. This frequency is too high to feel as electric shock but when being zapped you can feel the low frequency component of the spark gap firing rate.
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PARTS LIST
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| PWM-OCXI | Drive Circuit | |
| SW1 | Trigger Switch | |
| Spark Coil 1 & 2 | Small Ignition Coils | |
| D1 | 20kV Diode x 4 | |
| C1 | 1nF 15kV | |
| C2 | 2nF 15kV | |
| C3 | Topload Sphere | |
| L1 | RF Choke 10uH | |
| L2 | RF Choke 10uH | |
| L3 | TC Primary Coil | |
| L4 | TC Secondary Coil | |
| Input Voltage | 12 VDC | |
| Power Consumption | 75W Max | |
| Max Arc Length |
5cm (in air) |
|
| Output Voltage (approx) | 50kV | |
| Primary Transformer | 2 x small ignition coils < 20kV | |
| Spark Gap | Sealed Static gap. ~4mm | |
| Primary Turns Primary Diameter Primary Inductance |
5 70 mm 1 uH |
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| Secondary Turns Secondary Height Secondary Diameter Secondary Inductance Secondary Resistance |
520 135 mm 26 mm 900 uH 10 ohms |
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| Topload | 32 mm Sphere | |
| Special Features |
Hand Held |
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The main driving circuit is a type of pulse width modulation circuit with protection against high voltage spikes. It is adjusted to get the maximum output from the two ignition coils.
The two ignition coils were stripped of the casing in order to reduce the overall size and allow access to the internal wiring. The inputs are wired in an anti-parallel arrangement to help keep the charging voltage high when under load.
The HV outputs of the spark coils are connected to a rectifier (D1) made from four HV diodes potted in epoxy resin. Connected to this is a small smoothing capacitor (C1) which helps to reduce the ripple in the HV DC output. The tank capacitor (C2) is charged from the HV DC supply via two RF chokes (inductors L1 & L2) which serve to prevent the RF oscillations of the TC primary circuit from interfering with the rest of the circuit.
The previous battery powered tesla coil design needed to be well connected to a good RF ground such as a metal rod in the earth. Without this the output would be limited and the driver circuit would be prone to failure.
With this mini tesla coil the RF ground connection is made by connecting it to a copper pad on the handle.
The body of the person holding the device is used as the RF ground and the large area of copper ensures the energy is spread out to prevent RF burns.
In most Tesla Coils this would not be safe at all but this device is very low power so there is little risk of electric shock. The RF its self probably isn't too healthy though!
The TC part (Tesla Coil) uses the common single static spark gap and flat primary design for simplicity and size. The primary coil is closely wound around the base of the secondary with several layers of insulation tape preventing flashover.
The topload sphere is made from a metal draw handle which has been drilled to allow gas to be ejected from the end. A pipe from this sphere runs down the inside of the secondary and to the back of the handle where it can be connected to a gas supply.
Using noble gasses such as Argon or Neon will cause the output arcs to be forced along the flow of gas. This allows the plasma to be directed in a straight line from the tip of the plasma gun. It is also possible to use butane gas which makes this thing into some kind of flamethrower - plasma gun hybrid. The electricity is conducted along the flame from its tip. You can see photos of this effect on our plasma page.
Apart from making cool arcs of plasma, this device even transmits wireless electrical power. It can light bulbs and fluorescent lights just from being nearby.
The interference created by this wireless energy can cause all sorts of electronic devices to switch on and off or start behaving erratically. This is because the energy is causing tiny currents to be induced in the tracks and wires in the devices. If a simple circuit had a matching resonant frequency to that of the plasma gun, it would be possible to collect the wireless energy from a greater distance.
There are several improvements that could be made on this design which could result in a greater power throughput and therefore bigger arcs.
The spark gap is just a single gap which has been seal inside a plastic case for safety and size. This sort of switching will have poor performance due to quenching difficulties and oxide buildup. A solid state version would be better but it would likely be larger and considerably more expensive.
A larger topload would allow for larger breakouts, but it would also need more primary capacitance. The secondary coil is also rather long relative to its width. Ideally this would be shorter and wider.
In conclusion this was a fun project and we hope you find this information useful and interesting.
The information provided here can not be guaranteed as accurate or correct. Always check with an alternate source before following any suggestions made here.
1) Where does one obtain the HV diodes rated at 15kV...do you know if RS components do these or is there an alternative source from old equipment?
2)Is the final tank capacitor a single capacitor or an MMC? I assume it's the former.
The tank cap is just two identical caps in parallel.
Should make it so you can fire ionised gas out of it so the sparks can go better.
It works well using Neon too, bright red. If it's forced out through a tiny opening it will make a long straight needle like plasma jet.
Possible to use an RF antenna 'dummy load' here instead? (Just in case somone wanted to up the power)
(1) Is the gas line neccessary, or only for the purpose of emitting streamers from the end of the "gun" itself?
(2) What would you estimate the total cost of the project to be?
Thanks, and good job!
Rough costings as follows;
Cordless Drill - £10
Drive Circuit - £40
2x Spark Coils - £30
4x Diodes - £8
3x Capacitors - £5
RF Chokes - £1
Topload Sphere - £3
Coils & Former - £5
Spark Gap - £3
Time to Build - Priceless
TOTAL £105
That's buying everything new, you could probably lower the cost by using salvaged parts.
radiation... I wouldnt
want to be exposed to that.Just look at the way Tesa and most of his
associates died...Being blasted with x-rays just because it looks
cool can really be a bad decision.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tesla_coil
Can i break it now!! ..
Drill a hole through the ball at the top of the coil. Devise a CO2 laser of suitable wattage and compact enough to fit inside the coil's cylinder.
Set Phasers to tickle!!
Just found this video of an amazing hand held tesla coil. It needs to be plugged in to the mains but it's certainly impressive. Well done JM Labs and teslacoil.net
would it make them go off?
if so, that is a fun little toy.
Yes, the plasma will just reach for grounded objects like an ordinary Tesla Coil.
bd,
Ever heard of a glue gun or a staple gun? They are used to create things, not destroy them.
Thanks for your help.
get a massive can sized capacitor full of tonnes of electric like with the can crushers, and use that instead of batteries so instead of a steady thing like that you could do what the posted vid does but have to reload each shot.
WHAT IS THE RANGE OF IT
I think your idea based on the classic tesla coil is good, and the working unit is excelent.
If i was to make one id try to go solid state all the way, it may give you better power efficency over the traditional spark gap method.
I would also be very tempted to construct an aditional coil and make the system like a magnifier, this will help lower the res frequency down to more manageable levels, as well as giving you more of a voltage feild.
if the frequency is low enough, you may even be able to use ferrite powder, or bits of ferrite in the center of the sec tube, to improve coupling.
Anyway I look forward to seeing more of your work
I did the same thing with an old Model-T Ford ignition coil in 1937/38!
Great build btw.
I am looking for Christmas ideas and wondered if I could but everything needed for this project as a kit...except the drill of course. I know nothing about this stuff and think I could easily spend a hour on this site just trying to find all the parts. It would be great if a package deal were available with basic instructions or the like. Thanks
thank you!
if i vary the voltage upto 2 times,what will be the result
My friends and I are making this for a high school chem. project and we would like to know a couple of things.
1) What are possible dangers? Are measures of safety did you take when you made this?
2) Do you know where we can get the parts other than your site (we need it soon but your shipping date is past the due date). What stores do you recommend?
3) Why a drill? Are there any parts in the drill (aside from the battery) that is critical?
Thanks!
Coils from an autospares supplier, maybe you can find other parts in a local electonics shop.
Drill just has a convinient shape, battery and switch.
Thanks for your help.
The output from the ignition coils does need to be rectified.
FB,
1.4nF is quite small and will therefore create a higher frequency resonance than a larger capacitor would. You may be able to compensate with more turns on your primary coil.
It is all about matching the resonant frequencies of the parts so you have to make your coils match the capacitor used.
Alex,
A drawer handle from a DIY store.
Yes the secondary wire is enamel coated copper wire aka magnet wire.
You have a lot to learn before you should try a project like this or it will just not work. I can't possibly explain every detail.
Thanks, Alex
First of all, why are RF chokes necessary, and what problems are caused with the device if RF chokes are not used?
Also, It says the spark coils generate about 20kv of energy. Why do you only need diodes and capacitors that can tolerate 15kv?
Lastly, with the primary coil having 5 turns and the secondary having 520 turns, with a direct relationship between the increase in number of coils to increase in voltage, wouldn't that mean that the 20kv put into them by the spark coils would increase 100-fold to about 2000kv?
If you dont use the chokes, when the spark gap fires, it can cause current or voltage spkes which would damage the diodes.
The coils are constantly loaded in this circuit and will never get as high as 20kV, infact the spark gap was set to fire at around 5kV but your components must always be rated significantly higher.
There is no direct relationship between the number of turns in this type of transformer. It depends on many factors.
The ground is on your power supply or the negative terminal of your battery.
The secondary coil is grounded...
Also, what should the knobs on the primary circuit be set to?
As your coil is of a different design, you will need to 'tune' your tesla coil. If you used insulated wire on the primary coil as we did, I would think the best way to tune it to try different capacitor values for C2 or try varying the number of turns of wire in the primary coil.
The specific number of turns used is not as important as getting the primary and secondary circuits to resonate at the same frequency. I think that 31cm would be too long if it is as narrow as this one. Even the one we made was probably too long and narrow for optimum performance.
C2 and L3 form a parallel resonant circuit which will oscillate at its fundamental frequency which should be made to match the resonant frequency for the secondary circuit C4 and L4. In addition to the capacitance of C4 the coil its self will have a 'self capacitance' which can be harder to calculate. This oftem makes it neccesary to manually tune the coil as described. Here you can find some info about Tesla Coil Calcualtions
Be raedy to spend some time tuning and tweaking it for performance.
Smaller coils are even harder to get to work.
The wire used was about 0.2mm thick.
And all i can say also it will no more weigh than 6 kilograms due to titanium construction of the tesla gun.
A larger heat sink would be more effective than a larger fan.
WOULD A TESLA COIL WORK IF IT WAS CHARGED WITH AN WELDING TRANSFORMER OF 500 AMPERE IN ADDITION TO THE ORIGINAL POWERSUPPLY.
IF IT WOULD WORK WHAT WOULD THE RANGE BE
Too difficult for my skills xD
Depends on your cou\il, they are all different. Usualy a stanley knfe and crewdriver wold help.
OAK,
No, the welding transformer would be useless.
And another "nubish" question is which of the coils is connected to anti-parallel to PWM? Outer or inner?
http://www.rmcybernetics.com/shop/high-voltage/hv-spark-coil
Some of those are inernally potted in resin which is difficult to remove.In this case you can just leave out the secondary coils connection to gnd. When like this, don't try to run the coils without them connected to a load or the back emf might be too large.
I presume that rectifier's connection is contacted to long neck's end?
HOW MUCH IS THE INSULATION CAPACITY OF THE TESLA TROOPER ? OR WOULD A TESLA TROOPER SURVIVE AN LIGHTNING BOLT STRIKE ?
Erm.. See above.
I.Q.,
The sparks will be roughly proportioanl to the input current. Doubling the input voltage would probably double the current, but the components used would overheat. A physically larger device would need to be built.
OAK,
Insualtion wont protect you from a Tesla coil or lightning. A metal suit connected to ground would. No ball lightning.
I would like to build something similar to this so it sure would be nice if you linked to all the parts for this project on one page...
Rob
I guess I would have to connect several caps together in order to reduce C1 down to 1nF?
What about the diodes, your schematic calls for 4 x 15kV at what mA? Your site list 8, 10, 20 and 30kV diodes but not one 15kV diode so how do I know which parts to order from your site?
Sorry to be such a pain I just want to order the right parts the first time form your website, that way I support your efforts : )
Rob
You could post a completed unit for an assembled price and then list a kit for the DIY’ers to assemble and then list all the components individually for those of us that want to buy just a few individual parts for a our own projects, but on this page where this project is located. Doing so would make it a lot easer for all parties concerned.
I know I would buy a kit with everything except the drill gun for my project if all the parts were located on this page that way I don’t have to hunt and do conversions to figure out which parts I need because they would all be for sale with photos of the part and shopping cart all on this one page.
Just one more thing, it would be nice to see the cost for the items in USD currency too : ) As this would encourage me to order more with more confidence knowing exactly how much each item is without me having to do conversions.
Thank you,
Rob
The 20kV or 30kV diodes would be fine. With the diodes, it is best to go with higher ratings as it means they are less likley to be damaged by any accidental over voltage or current.
I will update the parts list to make it easier to find things later today.
I can't really offer a kit becasue it is a potentially dangerous device and would need all sorts of saftey testing. Also some of the parts, such as the primary and secondary are hand made using random surplus parts.
The exchange rate varies dailly so I can't put prices in USD. You can easilly approximate as it is typically twice the number shown in GBP. (£1 = )
Obviously I am aware of doubling the amount of cost and the dangers of building Tesla coils.
Are you aware that kits and working Tesla coils are sold on Ebay?
Just write a use at your own risk clause.
I have to agree with several of the post above this is one of the best sites, many others wont even give you the time of day : (
Thanks again for breaking it down for us novices!
Rob
For currency, plz, use Google :|
Just type "£ to $" to search input. So ez ^^
Btw, DIY staff. Does it matter how I connect my choke? Color code on that is silver-black-black-brown.
Would this arrangement still charge the tank circuit?
Rob
Please, look up what a tesla coil is and how its circuitry works before asking questions.
I learned that the hard way here. But now, I have my own coil and it works spectacularly.
So seriously, guys. Get a little info before you ask stupid questions. Wikipedia is excellent for this sort of thing.
IF you read up on how tesla coils worked you would not find the diagrams that confusing. After all, this is not a tutorial site where the author basically assumes everyone who reads it knows nothing about what the subject matter is and explains every small step in great detail. This is a site for people who are educated enough in the basics of what they are trying to do that they don't need those kind of things.
If you read up on these coils, you would know that of course a welding transformer won't work. It ups the current to get the super high heat needed for welding. A tesla coil transformer needs to do the exact opposite: it ups the voltage.
So please, people. Do a little research instead of bugging these people with obviously uninformed questions.
If you do eventually need to talk to them about a legitimate problem afterwards, hopefully by then you will be competent enough not to embarrass yourself and waste their time by asking a question with an extremely obvious answer.
It’s just the two leads +/- from the battery connected to the twin output coil.
Alex
To the contrary no question is stupid, i.e. if the person doesn’t know the answer it means they are looking for guidance and not asking to be ridiculed.
Rob
My circuit won’t be used in the exact same manner as your Plasma Gun. The top load components in my circuit are going to absorb all of the RF output, or so I hope: )
Ill upload a photo or u-tube video as soon I get the circuit operational.
Prepare to be surprised : )
Rob
Yes I meant battery -ve as ground. Look forward to seeing it.
Fury,
A very high power UV laser would be used to create a path of ionized air.
No. The RF ground should be a totally independant ground.
Blake,
Plasma can be held by magnetic fields, but if you take it away from its energy source, the plasma would loose its energy and just become normal air again.
Robert A. Patterson
http://quantumgravitics.tripod.com
Do you have a schematic diagram for this type of wiring scenario?
Rob
Do you have a diagram for incorporating a polar reversing switch?
Rob
Okay now I am confused…I-I mean my blond is showing: )
Could you please detail the polar reversing switch in schematic from, as it would be connected from the PWM to the twin anti-parallel coils differentiating between positive and negative power source e.g. battery and those of the inductor connections on the PWM?
If I can get this right my plan is to use the polar reversing to achieve ascend/descend maneuvers on the EGV-3 while using the PWM as the electronic throttle! The main goal being to achieve a sustained hover-mode and up/down maneuvers so I might need to reverse polarity assuming one polarity could be either up or down…
Make sense?
Rob
Also if you want to use as open collector, just replace the connection to L+ with the connection to your other source as shown previously.
Rob
First, I see the scheme has 3 grounds (one for the power pulse modulator, one for the primary coil and one for the secondary coil). So, if ground for the secondary coil is the "virtual ground" the user makes when he touches the metallic pad on the handle:
1) is the ground for the power pulse modulator actually the negative pole of the battery?
2) what is the ground for the primary coil?
Now, about other parts of the project:
3) the battery is supposed to be recycled from a drill, but if one does NOT have that kind of drill, what kind of battery does he have to look for? I know it's 12V, but how many mA?
4) do you explain anywhere in detail how to build the primary and secondary coils? I want to know what kind of wire I need, what kind of support I need to coil it around, if I have to coat the secondary with anything (what?) to keep the coils in place...
Also (I know, I said 4 question and this is the fifth, but it's not specifically about the project): do you only accept PayPal?
The RF ground is just for the secondary coil and goes to the metal plate on the handle.
3) Any 12V battery will work if it can output current above 3A. A small SLA battery of about 1Ah would be enough.
4) No, I will add it to my todo list for such a page. You should use a hollow plastic tube, and use enamel coated copper wire of about 0.3mm diameter. the windings should be tight and closely packed. There is no need to coat it after, but it can help to protect it from damage is you do.
Paypal is just used to take the payments, you can pay with all major credit/debit cards or a paypal account.
Exactly, you don't need a paypal account.
It is awesome!
Now I have gotten around to build something like it.
The biggest differences is mine is driven by an flyback transformer from 8xAA(or 12) batteries. When shorted it makes 0.7-1.5cm arcs.
For cap I use two rolled polyethylene capacitors 3.3nf (if i try with slightly more/less the output of the TC decreases to nearly zero, i think it is in tune).
Also my secondary coil is kinda short-thikish.
I use no toppload the TC makes some thin 1cm streamers but spark 5cm to grounded objects.
The weird thing is:
The TC preforms worse if I ground it to me/ground. With no grounding there is nearly no sparks. But if i add a 0.4m wire to the bottom of the secondary I get the results i mentioned.
I think some of the problems are:
A bit to short secondary.(making a new one)
To long wires on the circuit.
Somewhat out of tune.
Far to low amperage output from the HV-supply. (maybe I could parallel two separate flyback supplies)
However i think the sparkgap and capacitors are good.
There is no heat/light (corona or oversparking, but some hissing wile they are charing) in the capacitors.
The sparkgap is made of round electrodes set at a really close distance (like 1mm)
Got any suggestions how i could improve my coil?
I would think that when you ground the coil to yourself, it changes the resonant frequency of it and it therefore becomes out of tune. Physically small coils like these are more sensitive to changes compared with a 'normal' sized TC.
Adding a topload would allow for bigger streamer into the air, but wont change the length when the arc to ground. This would also mean you need to retune it.
maybe improved quenching on your spark gap would help. You could use a fan to blow air through it.
Is this what you meant? It appears that one of the output coils will always be the 'wrong way' round relative to the original circuit and so the voltage at the bridge rectifier will be halved.
Will the circuit still work with a 12V supply? Thanks.
1) Can the same physical battery be used to power both the Modulator circuit and the coil? (The diagram given in the manual shows two separate sources with a common ground)
2) When taking off the HV output, should the return be connected to the -ve input pole of the coil (which I believe is wired to the base of the internal secondary coil, correct me if I'm wrong), or directly to ground (i.e. negative terminal of battery)?
Thanks very much.
When the 12V pulse is sent to the coils, each recieves the opposite polarity. This means that if one output is 10kV, the other is -10kV, giving a total potential difference of 20kV. I notced you posted a similar question today also before I had chance to read these, but I deleted it as it is covered in this one.
iDuck,
This mini telsa coil uses a single battery but that is because the output of the spark coils is loaded and quite stable. If you want to just take sparks from your coils output ou should use a seperate supply othewise you could get voltage spikes between your battery terminals which can blow the IC's on the circuit.
Use the GND as reference for output.
The coil works great now!
I use 3.2 nF caps, and between 4-6 turns on the primary.
Is it common that small coils frequency are changed by the environment?
I have marked the spots on the primary for best results w/o ground and handheld/standing on the table.
When I take my hand close to the secondary coil the output decreases dramatically, but if I "retuned" it, I got the same sparks. The same thing with a wall-outlet ground, (the sparks get slightly bigger?).
The coil makes sparks of similar length as the on in your video, and makes light bulbs turn into plasma balls too.
But when I tried to film my coil the sparks looked really weak, is your sparks MUCH more impressing in "real view" or do you got a better camera than me?
Oh a last thing: Is it supposed to be really noisy, both the spark gap and the corona makes LOUD noise. :)
Thanks for great site and info.
i see u use 2 seperate ignition coils, but could i use a harley davidson coil with dual outputs instead, it seems to be alil more compact n use less room.
4 AA batts would give you 6V at most, this will power the circuit ok, but you really need more voltage to switch on the MOSFET fully. Using only 6V would possibly cause it to get hotter than it would with 9 or 12V.
Alex,
Great, glad to hear of your success. Yes small coils are very sensitive to changes in the environment.
You will need a camera with a night mode or a resonably good camera to get a realistic picture of the arcs.
Yes Tesla coils are VERY loud! :)
brandon weber,
I don't know the configuration of that coil. I would assume the outputs are in phase so you could not wire it up the same ways as the ones shown here.
Ebay search
NOS Yamaha TX500 Ignition Coils Set XS500 TX XS 500
Procomp Hi Intensity Core Ignition Coil Blue PC-91
Don’t use any of those smaller motorcycle coils that look like half the size of the larger coils, in fact you can use any double set of motorcycle coils that have a positive and negative primary and a single secondary high voltage terminal but do not use any with a duel secondary output.
Most motorcycle coils are mounted on a frame but the frame can be removed by un-bolting the coils.
Rob
The current drain will be quite low so the batteries would last a long time.
What AWG (gauge) magnet wire size did you use for your secondary coil?
Rob
So when can I place my order for some 2nd or 3rd generation plasma rifles for my mercernary army? I've got a planet or two to conquer.
and if i touch this will i die
cheers
I am looking at vehicle ignition coils for my spark coils (as you did). The only ones I have found are 12V in 42kV out. My battery turned out to be a 18 V battery. I have found several PWM modules that seem to be capable of doing the job (including some sizable heat sinks and cooling fans). But what would the effect of plugging in a 18 V battery into a PWM (using your specs), with two of the above named ignition coils, and all the other parts? Would I be in any danger of frying something? (component? circuit? myself?!?)
Our PWM Circuits have an open collector output which means you could power the circuit from 12V while switching the 18V to your load. You could do this from your 18V battery by using a regulator like an LM7812.
If so that would be great, I plan on making one of these, thanks for posting this you did a great job.
30kv 30mA Diodes
30kV Capacitors
HV Pulse Capacitor
Pulse Generator OCXI
You will also need the battery and trigger. We used a cheap cordless drill. You will also need to wind the secondary coil yourself. We will however have some coils available soon, and be providing a kit with instructions.
Also I got the power pulse mod I bought from you guys, do you make these yourself? It's very nice quality.
I love this site.
We will add videos, plus we will update the article to make it easier to follow. Can't give you a date, but it is on the "to do" list.
Would the arc go further? Possibly get a nasty shock?
I'm asking because a police/military weapon company (canada) wants me to make a device that can shoot lightening in an effective manner, like a tazer with a little extra kick.
Basically turning the device from light shocking drill, into electricity shooting glove. With a battery packed book bag.
Some horrible person (most likely me) could create a horrible weapon that could get into the wrong hands (mine or weapon companies)
Also, battery technology has not made any significant advances for a long time. The energy density is very low and therefore large bulky batteries are needed for any significant power. This is just impractical and is the main technical factor limiting the use of portable, power hungry electrical devices.
X-Rays are most commonly produced using high voltage DC to accelerate electrons in a vacuum to hit a high density metal target. The resulting Bremsstrahlung is a broad spectrum of X-Rays.
Battery negative terminal.
You can use the code XMAS2K11 at the checkout in our shop to get 10% off any of the parts you purchase before Dec 25th.
It will make a lamp glow. It will not reach 1m as it is not powerful enough. You can buy the parts in our shop. Check the section for High Voltage Components.
All the information you need is on this site allready. You need to spend some time following the links and reading other articles so that you can gain an understanding of what is involved.
Yes you would need all the components. The voltage ratings etc must be the same or they will be destroyed or not work. THe primary coil can be made from winding any thick wire.
The gas inlet is just a plastic pipe. leading to the dicharge terminal.
Yes, see the table of parts just below the circuit diagram for links to the parts.
Sorry we do not have anything available. This is not really one for beginners either as it involves dangerous high voltages.
Yes, the PWM-OCmi will happily drive the ignition coils. They will just have limited continuous power meaning you will need to run for short periods so it has time to cool.